Travel information on the Top 10 (and more!) places you should visit in Ireland.

Top 10 things to see in Ireland

• My #1 is County Donegal. Tour as much of the coast as time will allow. This county is my all-time favourite place. The scenery is awesome, the people are super-friendly and the whole ‘feel’ of the place is so laid-back and rejuvenating. Try to take in a visit to Grainan of Aileach neolithic fort near Derry. The views from here are likely to render you speechless.

• Connemara. Work your way round this area from Sligo through Ballina and on round the coast to Westport, a good place to stay. While there, check out Matt Molloy’s ‘singing pub’ where local musicians gather most nights. (Matt is a member of the Chieftains)

• Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. There is a new interpretive centre and the cliffs are stunning. County Clare has some other jewels as well. The Burren area is unique with unusual landscapes and wildflowers that exist only here. Visit Lisdoonvarna, home of the Matchmaker Festival and a great place to experience genuine Irish music. The Aran Islands are accessed from Doolin, a great little village to spend a night in. Of the dozen or two buildings, I think three are pubs and a couple are seafood restaurants.

• Dingle Bay and Peninsula, the Ring of Kerry, Killarney and Macgillycuddy’s Reeks. That’s a mouthful! This is a grouping of the southwest corner of Ireland, an area of great natural beauty and amazing variety. This is the tourist spot of Ireland. Here you will find many places renowned in Irish songs, like Bantry Bay, Tralee and Killarney’s Lakes of Blue. It is a beautiful place. The famous Blarney Castle is to the east of the region. I give special mention here to a pair of small islands off the coast of Kerry called The Skelligs…Little Skellig and Skellig Michael. You need to check out the link to Skellig Michael. I can’t tell you all there is to say about this unique place.

• Cork and the southeast. From the port city of Cork to Wexford and Wicklow counties the topography softens a bit and though the coast here has much to offer, it isn’t the same as the more rugged west coast. Kinsale, south of Cork, is a lovely fishing village renowned for its seafood. Cork is a bit inland from its port, Cobh, which stands in the middle of a large inlet making it a perfect harbour for transatlantic shipping. It is a stopping point from many of the ships and cruise liners that start off from Southampton. It was also the departure point for thousands of Irishmen being deported to Australia and the New World in the years when England had a bit of a dislike for the Irish, and needed a workforce in the colonies. Cork, to-day, is a lively cosmopolitan city that has kept most of its old charm. From Cork we progress through Youghall and Dungarvan to Waterford. Waterford is a lesser port than Cork, but it had its moments, too. Now known for the Waterford Crystal factory, it is a pretty and interesting place. The counties of Wexford and Wicklow are both famous for their rural beauty. Renowned are places like ‘The Meeting of the Waters’ and the Wicklow Mountains. The Clonmel area is known for its orchards and cider. At the southeast tip is Rosslare which is a ferry port to England, Wales and France, and a holiday resort with a beautiful beach.

• Dublin and the Leinster coast. Dublin is the capital and one of Europe’s most modern and lively cities. (It is also one of the most expensive!) With its history and its lovely parks, buildings and architecture, it is well worth a bit of expense, but I would not recommend you staying there more than a couple of nights, unless your budget is ‘high-end’ and you prefer city life to scenery. Dubliners are precious! If you do spend a bit of time in Dublin, you should talk to the locals, preferably over a pint of Guinness or a glass of Irish Whiskey (or both!). Dubliners love to talk. They are extremely well informed, and will one moment discuss world politics before switching to rugby, horse-racing or one of the gaelic sports, without missing a beat! There are lots of places to visit and see in Dublin. I will let you explore these using the link. All along this east coast are fishing villages, beaches and a few castles. Bray, south of Dublin, is Dubliners’ seaside resort. Just north of Dublin is a little island called Howth with another seaside resort, Malahide. Both are worth a detour if time permits. Further up the coast is Drogheda, a port/fishing village on the River Boyne, scene of the Battle of the Boyne fought on 12th. July, 1690, by the Irish Protestants and William of Orange against the Roman Catholic King James II. The 12th. July is still commemorated by N. Ireland protestants. Inland from Drogheda is an area of great interest to historians and antiquairians. Slane Castle is here, as are the historical town of Navan, the Hill of Tara, Newgrange neolithic fort and Kells where the Book of Kells was written. It is probably the most famous illuminated manuscript known. Just before entering N. Ireland is another very historical town called Dundalk. From being the birthplace of Cu Cúchulainn the Brave also known as The Hound of Ulster. He is the main character in The Tain Bó Cuailgne, an ancient saga of Ireland. Actually, Dundalk goes back further than that, to around 500 B.C. when the Celts arrived from Europe. It has been since ravished by the Vikings, the Normans and the English, each leaving a trail of infamy, culture and history.

• We now enter N.Ireland and the County (or Kingdom of) Down. The place where “the mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea” is much more than scenic mountain beauty. It’s full of history (particularly of St. Patrick), outdoor adventure and socialability. The climate here is milder than other parts of Ireland, making it an ideal place for hill-walking and other outdoor pursuits. The Slieve Donard Hotel and Royal Down golf course are among the world’s best. The coast has 2 sea-lochs (loughs in Ireland), Strangford and Carlingford. The larger is Strangford Lough. Newcastle, at the foot of the Mournes, has a wide-sweeping bay. Sailing is very popular on the Lough and Downpatrick is at the southern tip. Downpatrick is where St. Patrick is buried and the area makes good use of his fame. Further north, before reaching Belfast, is a seaside resort called Bangor. Bangor went into a bit of a decline since the 60’s, having once been the resort for Belfast. More recently it has seen some restoration towards its former glory, but more as a dormitory town for wealthy Belfast professionals. It has a ‘blue-flag’ marina that, no doubt, aids in attracting the more wealthy. In more ancient times it was an important monastic site and one of the three leading lights of Celtic Christianity. The others were Iona, the great missionary center founded by Colomba, and Bangor on the Dee, founded by Dinooth; the ancient Welsh Triads also confirm the “Perpetual Harmonies” at this great house. From the 6th. century there was a period of 300 years of non-stop psalmody (prayer sung antiphonally) at the monastery!

• Belfast, the capital city of N. Ireland, is situated at the head of Belfast Lough and sits at the foot of Cave Hill from which you can get a magnificent view of the city. Belfast is famous for a number of things (apart from the ‘troubles’), most notable being shipbuilding. The Titanic was built here at what was the biggest single shipyard in the world, Harland and Wolf’s. It also had the world’s biggest dry-dock at one time. H&W is still working, though not as busy as it once was. Other industries, and its position facing UK, made Belfast a very prosperous city and port. It benefited from the linen trade, coal exporting, whiskey distilling and other industries. It is still an important port but its access from the sea via Belfast Lough and the River Lagan detract from it being what it was in slower days. Ferries still run to UK, but from a newer terminal nearer the sea. The former wealth of the city can be seen in the many architecturally splendid buildings. The City Hall, in the city-centre, is at the end of Royal Avenue, a street of Victorian and Georgian shops. St. Anne’s Cathedral is just off Royal Avenue. Queen’s University and Stormont Castle are just two of the places of interest. Stormont is where the N.Ireland government is housed. The past 10 years (since the ‘troubles’ have died down) have seen great activity in the development of Belfast as a modern city of culture and tourism. The harbour development, known as the Waterfront, is magnificent with, of course, a big focus on the Titanic. I’ll let the Belfast website tell the rest of the story.

• Antrim and the Causeway Coast. From Belfast, continuing north along the Antrim coast, we come first to Carrickfergus with its castle and views of Belfast Lough. The castle is worth a stop. Further up the coast is the ferry port of Larne with Larne Lough and Island Magee which isn’t an island at all(!) Don’t linger here, but push on up the Antrim Coast Road. This is a very picturesque drive all the way to Ballycastle. The fishing villages you pass through all have their unique and quaint houses, harbours and views. Glenarm, Waterfoot, Cushendun and Cushendall and others are names familiar to all Northern Irelanders in poetry and song. The drive around the northeast tip of Ireland and Fair Head with its cliffs is one you will not easily forget. Ballycastle is another fishing village and market town, forever established in the song, “The Oul’ Lammas Fair.” This event takes place on the last Monday and Tuesday in August. Sadly, this famed event is only a shadow of what it used to be. Rathlin Island can be seen from Ballycastle and ferries run there regularly. To-day there is probably more interest in the Rathlin ferries than in Ballycastle itself. From Ballycastle, then, travel on to Giants Causeway and on to Portrush. All the way from Ballycastle to Portrush there are sights to be seen. There’s Dunluce Castle, Bushmills Distillery (short inland detour), Benbane Head, Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge and much more. As you approach Portrush the coast softens and gives way to long sandy beaches with miles of sand dunes and the famous Royal Portrush Golf Course. Portrush used to be a busy seaside resort but has fallen behind in the past 20-30 years as people now go to the Costa Del Sol as easily as they used to take the train to Portrush. It still survives as a place for day trips and for some of the tourist trade, and is worth a short visit to see the harbour and the headland on which Portrush sits. Next we come to Portstewart. Again it is not as popular as it used to be. I, personally, like Portstewart. It was always quieter and less commercial than Portrush. Portstewart Strand is a beautiful long sandy beach accessed from the town by a narrow cliff pathway on foot, but you can drive round to it by car. The song, “Red Sails in the Sunset” is said to have been inspired by a sunset seen from Portstewart Strand.

• To go further west to our starting point, Londonderry (Derry) you have to detour inland a bit to Coleraine, a market town that became a University town. It is a mix of both. Past Coleraine you should head towards the coast again towards Castlerock and Downhill. Nearing Downhill you will see the ruins of a Bishops’ Castle. It is well worth a visit. Apart from the castle there is a clifftop edifice called the Mussenden Temple. It never was a temple, by the way. A few years ago it was in danger of falling into the sea but was shored up using funding from the USA. Castlerock is a short detour and is a pretty seaside village/town that was once very popular for seniors and families who preferred it to the more commercialised Portrush. As you descend a rather steep hill into Downhill you emerge at the beginning of Magilligan Strand. 5 miles long, it ends at Magilligan Point at the entrance to Lough Foyle. There is a short ferry service across to Greencastle in Co. Donegal from here if you want to avoid the drive through Londonderry. There is a small ‘B’ road out of Downhill to Limavady that is one of my favourite drives. The views are to die for! Out of Downhill take the road that goes steeply uphill from the west side of the Downhill Hotel. Follow this road along the edge of Binevenagh Mountain and pick up signs to Limavady. When you descend into Limavady pick up signs to Londonderry. Limavady is another market town. It has a castle and some very nice views along the River Roe if you want to take time to see them. Just ask one of the locals where to go. On then to Derry City, my home town (kinda). I lived there from age 10 to my early 20’s. One of Derry’s names is ‘The Maiden City’ so called because its walls have never been breached. A historical city, Derry has quite a lot of interesting things to see. The, almost intact, city walls can be walked in an hour comfortably. From the walls you will see most of Derry’s other attractions, including St. Columb’s Cathedral, St. Eugene’s Cathedral, the Bogside, O’Doherty’s Keep, the Guildhall and the port are some of these. There are two places in Derry that I have to mention. First is Badger’s Pub, renowned as a meeting place and eatery. Second is a restaurant that I make sure I visit when I ‘go home’. It is called ‘The Exchange’ as it is located where the banking exchange used to be. The food is awesome and reasonably priced, the owner and staff are as friendly and efficient as you will get anywhere, and the ethos of the place is so convivial and relaxed, it could only be in Ireland.

• Before we finish, I have to cover a bit of what is in the North of Ireland, inland. I have probably focused too much on the coast, but it was a natural route to follow. Inland there is much to see, too. I will list a few places. Armagh is a ‘must-see’ for history buffs with its associations with St. Patrick and Dean Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels and Dean of Armagh. County Down has some beautiful mountain scenery. The Glens of Antrim are famous for their gentle scenery. The Ulster American Folk Park and Museum near Omagh tells the story of the Irish immigration to the USA. The Irish Lake District, the area from Enniskillen going east, defies description…just beautiful! It is mostly in Co. Fermanagh and consists mainly of Upper and Lower Lough Erne. That’s just scratching the surface.