I don't know if it's the childhood memories I have of trips into
Donegal with my family, or my later experiences when I was more able to
appreciate it, but I just love the place! The scenery, the people and
the ethos of the place combine to arouse my passions for 'Dear Old
Donegal' as the song puts it.
From Derry, where I lived, there are lots of places in Donegal that can
be done as day-trips by car. The Inishowen Peninsula is at your
doorstep and the 'Inishowen 100' scenic drive is a good day's driving
with adequate time for stops. You can reach the west coast and see
Bloody Foreland, Horn Head (see photo) and Fanad Head in a day.
Gweedore, the Rosses and Slieve League
might be pushing
things just a bit, but it could still be done. Hopefully you would not
be placed in this position as Donegal should not be hurried.
I have already mentioned a number of Donegal's scenic highlights. Most
of the places I have mentioned are around the coast. There is much
scenery inland, too. Glenveagh National Park and the Derryveagh
Mountains are so beautiful you might just think you were in heaven. The
mountains of Errigal and Muckish can be seen from quite a distance and
are quite distinctive. Errigal is
almost perfectly conical, while Muckish is aptly called 'The Sow's
Back' by the locals. These are two of the Seven Sisters peaks in the
Derryveagh Range. Further south is the Bluestack Range that you will
encounter if you choose to enter Donegal from the southeast. If you do,
you will pass through Barnsmore Gap, a scenic pass between Lifford and
Donegal Town. Donegal Town is pretty with a castle and other
interesting historical points of interest. Going west from Donegal
along the north shore of Donegal Bay you pass through Killybegs which
is an active fishing village for deep-sea trawlers. A bit further on
you come to Teelin village and signs to Slieve League. Slieve
League is a peak that rises above the sea below and its
seaward side greets the water with dramatic cliffs that are among the
highest in Europe. To continue on around the southwest tip of Donegal
and up the west coast, it is best to backtrack a little and follow
signs to Ardara. All this west coast is incredible. Just follow your
nose and any signs that say 'Scenic Route' and you will find new sights
round every bend, of which there are many! One place I would give
special mention to is in the village of Bunbeg in the area of Gweedore.
It's a 'tabairne' called Teac
Hiudi Beag's; commonly known as Hudi's. This is a pub and
B&B owned by the grandson of Hudi Beag, a blind fiddler of
great fame. It is now famed throughout the celtic music cognoscenti.
Every Monday evening they come from far and wide to play or listen. It
is renowned as far away as Brittany among celtic musicians who seem
magically drawn to the place. The B&B is superb, too, and
reasonably priced. You would be forgiven if you thought it was a 4-star
hotel without some of the amenities. Hudi cooks a mean
breakfast!
I would be remiss if I didn't mention the golf in
Donegal. There are courses in Donegal to rival the best
anywhere and the settings are, of course, stunning. As usual I have
come to the point where I have to stop and let you carry on finding
things out for yourselves. I hope I have given you a good start. A last
word about Donegal. You have to experience it for yourself! Call me. Do
it. For your soul's sake...